Multiplicity Buttoned Shawl

 Multiplicity Shawl

I got this from makemydaycreative.com

If you want to download the pattern she has pdf files for you to download.

It’s called multiplicity because there are so many ways to wear it.  So far I have counted about 10!  The other awesome thing is that this can easily be turned into a full triangle shaped shawl, just keep on crocheting.

Materials:

• 400m sock weight yarn (more if you are turning this into a shawl – I estimate 600m)
• 3mm hook
• 17x 12mm buttons, or your preferred number and size (you will need to adjust the buttonhole placement).

You could also try this in a heavier or lighter weight yarn and matching hook size and adjust the starting chain length accordingly.

Dimensions:

My unblocked measurements were: 115cm (long edge), 60 cm (top edge), 39cm (slanted edges), 20cm (width).

Once blocked the piece measured 127cm (long edge), 67 cm (top edge), 41cm (slanted edges), 27cm (width).

Multiplicity Shawl details

Pattern:

The scarf is worked in a trapeze shape by beginning on the long edge and decreasing each row.  Each row gets faster and faster as you near the end, which I quite like, and it also enables you to work less rows if you are facing running out of yarn….

Once the main body is complete you will work the buttonhole edge, a border onto the long edge, and then finally the button edge.

Cluster:  Fan

The fan cluster is worked into a single chain for the foundation row and into a ch1 space on remaining rows.  Work as follows:  (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc)

Main body

After the foundation rows this is a simple two row repeat.  The repeat for the chains is 8chs – add or subtract multiples of 8 from the starting chain to adjust the pattern.

Ch 280 + 2 (this makes for 36 repeats on row 1)

R1: Fan in 6th chain from hook, *ch1, skip 3 chs, sc, skip 3 chs, ch1, fan in next ch, repeat from * 34 more times, ch1, sk 3 chs, sc in final ch (36 fans)

Multiplicity Shawl Row 1 and 2 close up

Row 2 is a set up row for the next row of fans.

R2: ch3, turn, sk 1st ch-sp (between last sc and dc just worked), sc into next ch-sp, ch3, sc into centre dc of this fan.  *Ch2, sk next ch sp, dc into next ch-sp, ch1, skip 2 ch sps (before and after sc), dc into next ch sp, ch2, sc into centre dc of fan, repeat from * 34 times (35 sets of 3 ch-sps)

R3: Turn, ch1. *Ch1, skip ch-sp, fan into next ch-sp, sk ch-sp, ch1, sc into sc, repeat from * to end (35 fans)

Repeat row 2 and 3 until your piece is the desired width, finishing on a row 3.  The example pictured finishes after 35 rows (19 fans in final row).  Do not fasten off.

Triangle Shawl Aside: If you are making this into a triangle shawl just keep going until only one fan remains!  Then work the ch3, sc repeat as you have up one side (from the start of every row 2) around the top of the final shell and down the other side.  Use these loops to add your desired border or add the same one as for the buttonhole edge row 3 detailed below.

Buttonhole edge (BH)

ch3, turn, sk 1st ch1 space (between last sc and dc just worked), sc into next ch-sp. Ch1, turn.

Now work back down the ch3 sps made at the start of each row 2 and make buttonhole loops.  You can adjust the buttonhole number and size on this row, just make sure to work 3 sts or chs for each chain space.  BH R1 makes buttonholes 3chs wide.

BH R1: *3sc into ch-sp, ch3, skip ch-sp, repeat from * till one ch-sp remains, 3sc in ch-sp. (17 buttonholes, separated by 3sc on all sides)

BH R2: ch1, turn, sc in every st and ch evenly across (105sts)

Depending on how thick you would like this row add another row of sc.  If you do so, fasten off the yarn and reattach at the first st of BH R2 to work in the same direction just worked.  We are going to work an edge of fans along this edge and then across the long edge of the shawl.  The edge of fans is designed to match the buttonhole placement so please adjust if you like to your own button holes.

BH R3: ch 1, sk 3 sts, fan, sk 2 sts, sl-st, *ch 1, sk 2 sts, fan, sk 2 sts, sl-st, repeat from * until end, 3 sc in final st to start to turn the corner (17 fans and 3 sc)

Long Edge border (LE)

The fans for this edge are offset from the very first row of fans as I felt this looked better than lining them up.  However please adjust if you prefer an alternate placement!

LE R1: ch 1, sk the sides of the sts from BHR1 and 2, fan into first ch of foundation ch, *sk 3 sts, sl-st, sk 3 sts, fan, repeat from * until end, ch3 and sl-st into final st (37 fans).

The ch3 just made will be slip stitched into to join the fan to the button edge, so don’t worry that the final fan sticks out a little.

Button Edge (BE)

This edge forms the button band and is predominantly hidden if you wear the scarf buttoned.  If you intend to wear the scarf open then you may want to add a row of fans (as per BH R3) – but I didn’t bother!

BE R1:  *ch3, sk ch-sp, sc in next ch-sp, ch3, sk ch-sp, sc in dc which is in the middle of this fan, repeat from * to end (35 ch-sps)

BE R2: ch2, turn, (hdc2tog, hdc) into ch sp, 3hdc into each ch-sp to end, sl-st into the first and second of the ch3 made at the end of LE R1.

BE R3: turn, hdc into each st until only 2 sts remain, hdc2tog.

Repeat rows of hdc until the button band is your desired width, decreasing at the top end to keep the line of the edge even.

Finishing:

Fasten off and weave in all ends.  I really recommend wet blocking this piece – crocheting the edges may have stretched the piece out on the sides, and the pattern opens up (and looks prettier) in particular when blocked widthways.

Multiplicity Shawl Blocking (before and after)

Pin to shape making sure that the buttonhole edge and button band edge are the lame length.

Once blocked, sew buttons onto button band opposite the buttonholes.  Then see if you can think of any more ways to wear it!